If you are a private individual and want to trap in your garden: don't. The traps available are not selective, they kill large numbers of other insects, and they have no effect on the nest you are trying to get rid of. Trapping has only proven useful in two situations: around an apiary under pressure, and as part of coordinated spring action across an area.
Key points
- No trap is fully selective. They all catch other insects.
- Anses advises the general public against bottle traps: they kill useful insects without any impact on the targeted nest.
- Spring trapping works, but collectively: around 59 traps per 3 km², over several consecutive years.
- Stop as soon as the first European hornets are caught.
- Autumn trapping at the apiary is disappointing: it removes a flow, not the source.
Should you trap the Asian hornet?
To date there is no fully selective trap. No device on the market catches only the Asian hornet: you will also catch wasps, flies, butterflies and European hornets — many of which are useful, and some of which are in decline.
That is why Anses, in its prevention recommendations, explicitly says not to set up traps made of plastic bottles with syrup: "they kill other insects that are essential to biodiversity and will have almost no impact on the targeted nest".
The reasoning is simple: catching workers does not reduce what the nest produces, as it keeps producing more. A trap placed near an active nest removes a flow, not the source.
What has changed since 2021
For a long time, it could be said that no scientific data showed that trapping foundresses was useful. That is no longer true. ITSAP research carried out from 2016 to 2020 shows that spring trapping reduces the establishment of nests — provided it is done with a high density of traps and without interruption over several years. The question is therefore no longer "does it work?" but "is the effort made equal to what is needed?".
Spring trapping of foundresses
When they come out of hibernation, foundresses look for a place to build their primary nest. They are active earlier in the season than their European counterparts. Each foundress caught at this time means one nest that will never exist — hence the value of this window.
ITSAP research carried out in three departments gives two benchmarks:
- Continuity comes first: trapping repeated without interruption for four years is twice as effective as the same effort over three years.
- The density required is high: around 59 traps per 3 km², or one every 350 metres or so.
In other words, a few traps set up on their own in a garden have no measurable effect at the scale that matters. It is a collective action, coordinated across an area, or it is nothing — and in that case, all that remains is the damage to non-target insects.
As there are no fully selective traps and baits, ITSAP recommends limiting spring trapping to areas where predation really threatens the survival of honeybee colonies, especially around apiaries that have suffered winter losses attributed to the hornet.
When to stop trapping
As soon as the first European hornets get caught. The European hornet is a useful native species that lives alongside bees without major difficulty and can even attack the Asian hornet. Trapping it is pointless and counterproductive.
It comes out of hibernation later, which in practice marks the end of the window in which trapping mainly targets Asian hornet foundresses.
A trap left in place all year is a mistake: it becomes a biodiversity trap with no benefit.
Which trap to choose
If you trap for a justified reason, the choice of model makes all the difference.
Choose funnel traps with entrance cones, with a separation between the bait and the capture chamber. This design holds the foundresses while letting small insects get out again, and stops them from drowning in the liquid.
Bell traps and bottle traps should be avoided: they are particularly unselective. If that is all you have, at least adapt them — a sponge or a false bottom to prevent drowning, and holes of 5 mm at most so that small insects can escape. These are fixes, not a solution.
In all cases, check your traps regularly and release non-target insects that are still alive. A trap that is not checked is an unselective trap.
Which bait?
A fermented sweet mixture works well: for example one third red fruit syrup, one third dark beer and one third white wine. The wine matters: it greatly reduces the attraction for bees, which cannot stand it.
Never use a product based on animal protein in spring: it would attract many species indiscriminately.
Trapping at the apiary: what works and what disappoints
When Asian hornets put heavy pressure on an apiary, trapping is often the first reflex. Yet it is the least effective lever.
ITSAP considers the effectiveness of autumn trapping "often disappointing" for protecting apiaries, for the same reason as above: the nest keeps sending new hunters.
The levers whose effectiveness is better established lie elsewhere:
- removing nearby nests, which ITSAP considers the best solution;
- entrance guards fitted to hives from mid-July;
- electric harps, especially under medium to heavy pressure;
- reducing hive entrances.
How to protect an apiary from the Asian hornet
What do the regulations say about trapping?
The law no. 2025-237 of 14 March 2025 provides for a national control plan to set out guidelines on selective trapping, in line with scientific recommendations aimed at protecting non-target species.
This national plan has not been adopted yet. It will only come into force once a joint order of the ministers for the environment and for agriculture is published in the Journal officiel. Until then, the department plans that are supposed to set out local arrangements cannot be adopted.
Today, no text prohibits or requires trapping by private individuals. The recommendations on this page are technical and scientific, not regulatory.
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This is exactly what the protocols recommend: trapping that is not checked and counted can neither be assessed nor justified.
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Frequently asked questions
Does trapping reduce the number of hornets around my home?
No, except in spring and in a coordinated way. A trap set in summer or autumn near an active nest does not reduce the colony: it produces new workers faster than you can catch them.
Are shop-bought traps better?
No trap on the market is fully selective to date. What to look for is entrance cones and a separation between the bait and the capture chamber, not marketing claims.
Can I trap to protect my fruit or my terrace?
This is not recommended. Cover food and sweet drinks, and the problem goes away without traps or harm to other insects.
I have spotted a nest, should I trap around it?
No: report it. Trapping does not replace the removal of an active nest. I have found a nest: what should I do?
Sources
Information checked on 14/08/2026.